All very interesting. It brings to mind my one and only trip to Austria in the 1970's. Although I travelled all the way through the country from the German border to what was then Yugoslavia, I spent most of my time in Salzburg. I toured the medieval castle, Schloss Hohensalzburg, that dominates the town. And I recall well the fellow who led the tour (normally I don't do tours--I just wander on my own, but you were only allowed inside the castle as part of a group). He proudly described the use of the place as a military HQ and prison during the war and seemed quite proud of Austria's role as a partner with Germany. I was really struck by it at the time. And it contrasted strongly to the attitude of Germans in Munich and, especially, Dachau. When I went to the latter, I took a cab from the train station and the driver wouldn't even look me in the eye. Also, in Munich itself, at the site of the main pre-War synagogue, which had been burned by the Nazis, as stood and read a plaque about what had happened, people passing on the sidewalk cast down their eyes or looked away as if not to notice me.